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Stories from the Road

Ease Into Cheese

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Stories from the Road

KZN Trees

Roads are strange things. They represent change, they represent movement, they represent leaving and coming home…but for communities living in Northern Kwa Zulu Natal, the Lubombo Road really means life itself.

It goes without saying that the Lubombo Spatial Development Initiative Road (as it is officially known) is rich in human landscape and opportunity - but things weren't always this way. Just a few years back, mobility for the local people was severely limited by lack of infrastructure. However, when the Lubombo highway was officially opened at the end of November 2000, lifestyles were changed forever.

Stretching from Mapelane (Northern Kwa Zulu Natal) to the Mozambique border, the Lubombo road embraces a diversity of communities along the way.

Admittedly, there is something rather special about driving along South Africa's roads. Whilst flying is a fantastic way of getting from A to B, driving means that one has time to stop and absorb the snippets of life en route.

Gatecrashing a Shembe church service is not exactly polite, but there is something rather wonderful about stopping to observe the worshippers as they say their prayers in the outdoor cathedral under the circle of indigenous trees.

On leaving the impromptu church ceremony we met a tourist from Wales, who told us he had been traveling around Southern Africa on a motorbike for several months. For Welshman Karl Wardle, South Africa is one of the most diverse countries he has ever visited, and in his own words: "the roads here are an adventure biker's dream." After sharing a few anecdotes, Karl moved on - following the promise of prawns and beer just across the border.

Kosi Bay

By chance, we moved off the road to an inland dam where the local women were fishing for the catch of the day. The silvery fish, when caught, were tied around their waists like shiny makeshift mini-skirts flashing in the glint of the sun.

We stole a few quiet moments to photograph the spurwing geese at a place call the Muzi Pan (framed by a wealth of fever trees). The Lubombo road cuts through some of the richest ecological areas in South Africa. The stretch of road bypasses eight interlinking eco systems including the famous Lake St Lucia and the well-known Big Five reserves of Kwa Zulu Natal.

The road has done much for local business and we stopped off at the Big Tree market where one can buy anything from bread, to bras, to fresh fish to leather sandals. We were told by the locals that since the development of the road, business has grown in leaps and bounds in these parts. The evidence is clear and the market is vibrant and colourful in every way.

We moved gently along the Lubombo road until we reached Kosi Bay, a remote and abundantly beautiful part of the country. Rich in biodiversity, Kosi is managed by the Greater St Lucia Wetlands Park Authority and is certainly one of South Africa's great unsung treasures.

Here we swopped our vehicle for a boat and made our way across the bay to visit the local community at a place called Nkovokeni. We were met by the friendly faces of people who have lived on the Nkovokeni dunes for generations. The views from their homesteads are nothing short of spectacular, and here one can see almost the entire St Lucia lake system (one of South Africa's World heritage Sites).

The community has recently become aware of the benefits of tourism and as a result have built a guest house called Linah's Place that offers an authentic African experience, and the opportunity to truly interact with local people.

Unfortunately we said goodbye to the Nkovokeni community all too soon…. Mozambique was calling, and we had many more snippets of life to experience along the way. One thing is for sure, there is no lack of colour and richness of life as one moves across the Lubombo road.

Enquire at your local travel agent about self-drive opportunities along this fantastic stretch of coastline.

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